October 18th, 2013 | 16 Comments
How have you all been? The last teaching engagement of the year is over and I loved my time with the Marigold Applique-ers! Seriously, I felt guilty about being paid to be with these ladies. They offered up wine, GOOD wine, and all sorts of goodies and we laughed and laughed…….Oh and yes, they stitched. They work hard and play hard. Thanks ladies you were fabulous!
I have just finished up my last deadline commitment for the year and turned in my article for Machine Quilting Unlimited’s January 2014 issue. If you want to know how I quilted that woven design in the picture above, that is the issue you need to look for.
Both of these experiences prompted me to post about how I create my bindings because it was brought up as a question and I was working on a binding! I do my bindings very differently from the usual stitching, stopping and folding the corners at right angles for a miter method.
I actually sew the miter of the binding on my machine. I was taught this in one of my very first quilt making classes I took at my local quilt shop. I later tried the folded miter method and meh, not as good in my never so humble opinion.
It may seem complicated at first reading, but it goes relatively fast once you get it down.
1) Strips are cut on the straight of grain the length of the quilt edge(s) + at least 3″ extra on each end (both left and right ends). For this example, I am cutting the width of my strips two and one eighth inches wide (2.125″)
2) Take the strips to the ironing board and fold in half the length of the strip and press.
3) The next step is to mark each corner of the quilt top for the quarter inch measurement. A quarter of an inch from the side and a quarter of an inch down from the top.
I use the white chalk marker from Bohin or Sewline since it is nice and crisp and not too thick. This needs to be accurate!
4) Now I will lay one of the side strips in place and pin towards the ends from the center (remember the ends need to extend beyond the edges by at least three inches! Then once again, I will mark the 1/4″ marking only this time on the binding fabric making sure that the two dots are lined up and then finish pinning.
I do this secondary step so I know where to stop and start stitching. It is much easier to see than stopping, lifting my pressure foot, twisting the binding out of the way with the needle still in then twisting my head and neck to see if the needle landed in the right spot or not.
5) You will start and stop your stitching at these quarter inch markings. The needle needs to come down dead center on these markings!
6) Once you have the two side pieces sewn on, now you need to attach the top and bottom binding strips. Pin from the center out again and mark the quarter inch marks on these binding pieces making sure they line up.
The fussy bit: When you put your needle down to start stitching, it must be in the same needle hole where you started and stopped on the previous side piece(s). Exactly.
I pin the side piece out of the way like so and I can see the stitch and needle placement as well as keeping that side binding piece from getting in the way as I stitch on the top/bottom piece. (sorry for fuzzy pic)
7) Now you will see why those stops and start markings are so important. With the first corner, fold the quilt on a 45 degree angle, wrong sides together and the binding downward like so:
Make sure you also line up the binding edges and ends accurately. You can see how well I pin to make that happen. See that white dot? It is at the very end of the stitching and is my reference point for measuring the stitched miter in the following steps.
8) Measure the distance between the end of stitching (dot) and the bottom edge of the binding (in this case, 3/4″).
Divide that measurement in two. For this example, that would equal 3/8th” (0.375″) Mark this measurement. (again– sorry for the fuzzy pic)
Use the same center measurement, measure out horizontally the same 3/8″ and mark a new “center” dot. (this will be referenced as point (B) in the photos to come)
Using a straight edge, draw a line from point (A) to point (B) the new center dot.
Again, using a straight edge, draw a line from point (B) to point (C).
This line (A, B, & C) will be the stitching line for the miter.
I have made my own binding templates for binding widths I prefer. Draw the same measurements on template material and cut out. Remember to mark the template with the binding cut size so you don’t have to try and remember what it was the next time you want to use it.
I laid this one I have for the 2.125″ cut width over the lines I had measured and drawn above and you can see it is a match! If my needle position had been off on those original quarter inch markings when attaching the binding, you can see how this would affect the whole miter and its accuracy.
9) Time to stitch! Lower your needle in the same hole as the last stitch in point (A) stitch to the center (B) pivot and then continue stitching to the end at point (C). I use a smaller stitch length to make a more secure seam.
10) Once stitching is complete (make sure you backstitch to lock in your stitches!) You will need to trim the seam allowance and trim/grade the point to allow for turning. This seam allowance is smaller than it looks here in the zoom photo.
I use a bamboo tool for getting nice (but not too pointy!) even points.
Don’t overwork this or you will get a rather unattractive effect on the point.
Once turned, your point should look something like this……
Isn’t it pretty?! And best of all, below is a picture of the miter created for the back and you can see that the binding will be filled well with the seam allowance and my miter is already to be stitched down.
So, so pretty and now all I have to do is use a couple of those Clover clips to secure where I start and continue stitching and hand stitch closed the binding to the back. No uneven folds and the miter is secure and stitched in. No other intervention needed.
I am off to Houston soon and I am taking some chill time to re-energize because I have worked my, you know what off, 24/7 for the last ten months. I need to let the kids know that yes, they do have a mom. They just think I am some strange lady who lives in a cave filled with fabric and thread.
I picked up some excellent new batiks (new to me) in Canada and now my color mental block is going away on the new Naturalist’s Notebook block. Now all I have to do is figure out how to find some more of this fabric for kits.
I will try and tweet some pics of The Houston show on my Twitter link so watch that area in the upper right of this page.