by Sandra | January 14th, 2010
Hand applique requires few tools, but those tools matter. These simple things can make such a huge difference in the success, or not, of the applique experience and final outcome.
Of course, personal preference does play a role too, but a small one. Tool success also is dependent on the type of applique you are doing as well. Thread is no exception. Yes, Virginia, some threads are better than others. I do not have any commercial relationships to promote anything and I like to keep it that way. I am free of any commercial interest to tell you what works and what doesn’t. I can change my mind or move on if I find something new that works better. When it comes to thread, I have moved on to “better” several times.
My latest thread love affair may last though and I would find it very difficult to top this thread. To my students in my Seattle workshop three(?) years ago……THANK YOU! They turned me on to the Aurifil thread that had started coming out in small spools just for appliquers.
Folks, the industry ignores (understatement) hand applique-rs because we don’t sell or buy bucket loads of product, so this attention was monumental. My Seattle ladies told me where to get this thread as it was hard to find any retailer carrying it at the time. I fell in love and so far no other thread comes close to matching all of its qualities and ease to work with.
I have a technique for inward “V”‘s that requires a firm tug on the thread and it is always touch and go with the others to see if it will break at the most inopportune time. You know what I am talking about right? exactly at the point of the inward “V”? The Aurifil is STRONG (picture rippled muscles here). It rarely knots up on me when I am stitching and it will take a tug over and over again.
The only down side is the number of colors compared to the Mettler 60 wt. I use my other ‘next’ favorites which is the DMC 50 wt 2 ply cotton (also limited palette) and the Mettler 60 wt cotton to fill in the color gaps. I always check my Aurifil for the right color first. They did introduce 36(?) new colors at Fall Market and I hope they keep adding more.
I haven’t used silk since I first experimented with it. I know some people will cough up their coffee in protest and my comment switchboard will light up, but I really have yet to see it work well for hand applique and I can even tell if someone used silk or cotton. Mismatched thread weight and fiber with cotton fabrics creates irregular edges–automatically. You can’t help it, I can’t help it, it just happens without any interference on our part.
Keep the silk for machine quilting where it works beautifully (see Diane Gaudynski’s work for the ultimate example). If you want to keep using it, then by all means do, but your stitch and applique could probably be better. Just sayin’.
Using the right thread will do a lot of the work for you like any tool and in hand applique, thread is a tool. Hand applique takes devotion, time and effort, our tools are minimal, so use the best you can to make your investment of yourself in your applique pay off.
This is where I buy my Aurifil thread from (Nancy Chong and her sister) and they ship quickly and I have never had a problem–ever. Pacific Rim Quilting Co.
I have been asked many times to share what thread I use and why and I wanted to expand on that for those who are interested. I hope this answered those questions and was helpful for those who wish to know.
Sandra, you are so right about the thread issue, and I found Aurifil a few years ago, too. Not familiar with DMC, but Mettler 60wt is also a favorite. Wish the results I get could compare with yours! Thanks for the info.
NOW you tell me Sandra! LOL. I’m well stocked in the YLI silk thread! But I trust your infinite wisdom and will investigate and invest in some Aurifil. Hope it’s as easy to work with. As always, thanks for your advice!
Thanks so much for expanding on your earlier response to my question on thread. Coincidentally, I found Nancy Chong’s website yesterday and ordered some thread and the color card. I have been a silk user in the past, but do understand what you’re saying about irregularity in the edges. Looking forward to some experiementation! Thanks again!
Holly
Sandra, I went to Cotton Club awhile back and joined their Aurifil Club and now have the whole set of colors – WONDERFUL!! If you join, you get 12 spools for $37.50 every month (which gets you a couple free every month) and they’re shipped automatically – great deal. (I’m not affiliated, yada, yada, yada!) You said, tho, that there aren’t that many colors – how many colors are available in the DMC line? There are 180 Aurifil, I think…
http://tinyurl.com/y8neevr
Michele, I checked and DMC has 134 which includes some variegated colors I don’t use. I knew it was less than the Aurifil. However, DMC has a really good selection of brighter colors IMO.
Between you and Boop I am going to get into more trouble at home with these links to goodies!
Holly, Glad you found Nancy’s site and you are welcome.
The silk thread is stronger and finer than the cotton fabric fibers and that is what creates those tiny blister divets along the edge.
I can also see a slight shininess of the silk thread reflecting when hit with light and that bugged me as well. The silk doesn’t “burrow” and melt into the cotton fibers of the fabric like the cotton thread does. This also helps (if you have the right stitch) to make the stitch invisible. Silk always shows up even if just a little bit.
Chris,
Just keep stitching and your results will come. It took me some time and you would be comforted by previous quilts of mine.
I thought my ears were ringing !!!!!!!!!
Me get you into trouble ! I think it is the other way around ! LOL !
Seeing are both in trouble often , why not blame it on each other : )
I haven’t used Ariful. I have mettler and DMC . Now I have to get some Ariful to see what your talking about !
I don’t like silk at all , AT ALL ! it just seems to slip and slide and not hold itself in place, IMO . I have heard a lot of people love it though , so I thought it was just me . I like cotton on cotton .
The silk thread is still useful so don’t fret Melanie! It is great for fine embroidered details too. I use mine for that all the time. I don’t totally abandon any thread, I just re-purpose it!
Hey Boop!
Silk was heavily marketed for awhile for hand applique, especially when there weren’t too many lightweight cotton thread choices. So the silk was a great option *at the time* versus polyester or heavy sewing cotton. However, better options came along and might I add COLORS? The better you can match your thread to your applique, the more invisible the stitch.
How goes the mouse house?
Sandra, went to Ft Myers to get the Auriful. On a mission, as usual. Tried it out and it feels like dental floss (unwaxed) to me. Stiffer. I liked that it wasn’t shiny like silk, but it seemed (IMHO) to be more difficult to work with. I am working on a BOM and tried both silk and Auriful and the results seemed about the same. I course, I’m not in the same league as you…I will keep trying and experimenting.
the way, my husband cringes when I tell him I’m trying something “Sandra” suggested. He says “how much is that going to cost me?”!!! Boop has the right idea! LOL
Melanie, work with what makes you comfortable. If you are happy with the silk, then you should use it.
I can imagine that the Aurifil probably feels like rope to you after being used to silk thread so it would be an adjustment. At first, when it was shown to me, I was doubtful it would be better because of the feel. I even measured its thickness against the other two cottons I was using to make sure. It matched up perfectly. Now I am used to the feel.
I laughed at the visual of your husband cringing–poor guy. Maybe you need to come up with a code name for me. LOL
Sandra,
Do you have a link anywhere on your site for your inward V technique? I’d love to know how you recommend handle them. They are my weakness!
Thanks!
Nikki,
I have been trying to get this down in a handout for my students and still haven’t figured out how to do it that makes sense. It is something that has to be seen and demonstrated in person. It doesn’t make it “easier” really, but eliminates the noticable thread buildup in the crotch of the “V”.
I am still trying to develop a way to make it easier. Those “V”‘s are tricky little devils.